I'm sitting on a balcony sweating in the humid heat of an Amazon evening. In a building across the street, the local band is playing selections from "Star Wars" and "Aladdin", sounding every bit like we must have in High School. It's now 10:00, and the children have gone to bed, while people watching small TVs outdoors tune into telenovelas.
There is only one road to this town, and it's impassable most of the year. I flew in this afternoon on a Boeing 737, but most of the residents can afford only to buy a ticket on a boat that takes more than two days to travel to the next big city--sleeping is done on hammocks because the nights are simply too warm for a cabin.
Santarem, during the dry season, is a remote tourist attraction because of white sand river beaches. But now, with the water 30 feet above that point, the beaches are underwater and the tourists are absent--myself excluded I suppose. There is a riverwalk, well more of a nicely paved floodwall, where dozens of young couples sit on benches and kids play on swings at night to escape the heat of the day. Night comes early here, actually, as it does in much of the tropics. Restaurants don't begin to fill up until well after 8:00 PM.
Before then, the streets are filled with people working, albeit more slowly. Motorcyclists carrying everything swerve in and out of cars driving too fast on streets too narrow. Vendors selling random assortments of things line a couple of squares in the city. No one shouts, no one pushes.
I can feel a palpable desire from nearly everyone to improve their situation. People try to make money virtually any way they can. Some of that money will go toward symbols of wealth: cell phones, dvd players, nice shoes. But most of these people will never know wealth, the kind that means they don't need to worry about money. Poverty and prosperity are next door neighbors in Brazil, and everyone builds a wall around their own lot, so that what they do have remains theirs. Only the poorest, those in the favelas, cannot afford walls.
The language is foreign to me, the food tastes different, the beds are less comfortable, and the spaces narrower. More is different than the same--in fact, nearly everything is a little bit different. I'm sure that's true of international travel, but I've not yet had the chance to do much.
What isn't different, though, are the people. Children play like children, adolescents swim incessantly, teenagers blare loud music, young people sit at bars drinking and flirting, men and women work all day, old women watch their grandchildren and groups of old men sit and laugh at jokes.
But then, the fact that I actually get to see this--that life occurs in public view--is almost entirely foreign to me. In the midwest, life happens indoors, or occasionally in massive soccer complexes. If we are outdoors, we are mostly alone or in very small groups. Life is private. We are embarrassed to share our problems, and unwilling to let others witness our embarrassments.
That seems strange from this balcony, actually. Living our lives indoors is like buying individually wrapped "fun sized" Skittles. Kids can share one with everyone on their next play date! Here, people would want nothing more than to scoop deep into the bulk food barrel and watch the rainbow flow into their bags by the pound. Life happens here. Not some focus-grouped, mass-marketed, anti-bacterial, climate-controlled version, but rather something more chaotic and far more real.
There is only one road to this town, and it's impassable most of the year. I flew in this afternoon on a Boeing 737, but most of the residents can afford only to buy a ticket on a boat that takes more than two days to travel to the next big city--sleeping is done on hammocks because the nights are simply too warm for a cabin.
Santarem, during the dry season, is a remote tourist attraction because of white sand river beaches. But now, with the water 30 feet above that point, the beaches are underwater and the tourists are absent--myself excluded I suppose. There is a riverwalk, well more of a nicely paved floodwall, where dozens of young couples sit on benches and kids play on swings at night to escape the heat of the day. Night comes early here, actually, as it does in much of the tropics. Restaurants don't begin to fill up until well after 8:00 PM.
Before then, the streets are filled with people working, albeit more slowly. Motorcyclists carrying everything swerve in and out of cars driving too fast on streets too narrow. Vendors selling random assortments of things line a couple of squares in the city. No one shouts, no one pushes.
I can feel a palpable desire from nearly everyone to improve their situation. People try to make money virtually any way they can. Some of that money will go toward symbols of wealth: cell phones, dvd players, nice shoes. But most of these people will never know wealth, the kind that means they don't need to worry about money. Poverty and prosperity are next door neighbors in Brazil, and everyone builds a wall around their own lot, so that what they do have remains theirs. Only the poorest, those in the favelas, cannot afford walls.
The language is foreign to me, the food tastes different, the beds are less comfortable, and the spaces narrower. More is different than the same--in fact, nearly everything is a little bit different. I'm sure that's true of international travel, but I've not yet had the chance to do much.
What isn't different, though, are the people. Children play like children, adolescents swim incessantly, teenagers blare loud music, young people sit at bars drinking and flirting, men and women work all day, old women watch their grandchildren and groups of old men sit and laugh at jokes.
But then, the fact that I actually get to see this--that life occurs in public view--is almost entirely foreign to me. In the midwest, life happens indoors, or occasionally in massive soccer complexes. If we are outdoors, we are mostly alone or in very small groups. Life is private. We are embarrassed to share our problems, and unwilling to let others witness our embarrassments.
That seems strange from this balcony, actually. Living our lives indoors is like buying individually wrapped "fun sized" Skittles. Kids can share one with everyone on their next play date! Here, people would want nothing more than to scoop deep into the bulk food barrel and watch the rainbow flow into their bags by the pound. Life happens here. Not some focus-grouped, mass-marketed, anti-bacterial, climate-controlled version, but rather something more chaotic and far more real.
